Buttons Bursting
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- scene: Dark wood, large bar, candlelight; neighborhood Italian place with class and comfort
- sip: Fully revamped cocktail list
- savor: Picolo Piatti menu, especially the gnocchi, porchetta sandwich and the branzino
- sit: With a date; with a friend from the neighborhood; by yourself at the bar
- spend: $$
- address: 1471 Second Avenue (between 76th and 77th)
- phone number: (212) 744-1100
- website: www.spigolonyc.com
Very few people would think that 76th Street is “downtown” from much, but Spigolo just moved from its original location in the 80’s to their new home on second Avenue and 76th Street, and man are things different down in this neck of the woods. In order to reach a more casual clientele without sacrifcing the quality and artistry that have been associated with Spigolo for the last 10 years, Chef Joey D’Angelo has put together a Piccolo Piatti menu. These small plates are meant for the shoulder times early and later in the evening, to encourage people to sit and drink and eat in a more laid back way than they might expect from Spigolo. The cocktail menu also received a complete revamp, thanks to Francis Verall, and has a number of female-friendly options that will lure those more inclined to wine to the hard side. We fell in love with the Incendio, featuring Ilegal Mezcal, cynar, lemon, fresh ginger and aranciata rosa, a smokey, pretty drinking buddy for the evening. We were lucky enough to sample the Piccolo Piatti menu on its inaugural night.
The vibe at Spigolo is classic without being stuffy, dark wood, candlelight, and outside seating come the Spring weather. ( It is coming, I promise). The bar is large enough to properly eat at, a perfect option for neighborhood locals who just want to pop by solo to satisfy their Italian fix. Chef Joey has an impressive pedigree and is incapable of doing anything halfway, and so while the food might be accessible, there is serious skill behind each dish. The best Italian food is straight-forward and simple, and all the food we sampled at Spigolo feature details that elevate them in subtle and delicate ways. DEAL ALERT: the Assaggiare offers choice of three plates from the Piccolo Piatti menu and a cocktail for $35, which is enough food for a meal. The crowd still skews a little bit on the older side, but it is only a matter of time until the rest of the neighborhood catches on.
What we ate:
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Goat Cheese Zeppole, lemon zest- These were light and unique, could have used a bit more of that rich pungent punch from the goat cheese, which I feel badly saying but Chef Joey admitted it as well, so we look forward to trying these again.
Mozzarella en Carozza, -Boyfriend loves this dish so I have sampled it at quite a few places, and Spigolo does it proper justice. Homemade Pullman bread sets the stage for creamy bufala mozzarella, and arugula and vin cotto give a little bite. (See featured image.)
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Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi, hazelnuts, sage and parmagiano- This is THE dish, the crave -worthy, out of this world dish that will blow everyone away and keep them coming back for more. The texture of the gnocchi is sublime, melt in your mouth amazingness that is reminiscent of the gnudi at the Spotted Pig. The sage adds depth, the parmigiana saltiness, the hazelnuts a little crunch, bravo…
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Porchetta Panino, brocoli babe, scamorza, preserved lemon- Not too sound too laudatory, but this dish was perfection as well. Everyone knows I love nothing more than a good sandwich, and every single element here works. I also love lemon on everything, so you had me at hello. The pork is cooked just right, and is enhanced, not hidden, by all the other flavors. Going to take Boyfriend in for this dish…
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Octopus Ala Piastra with blistered shishito peppers and lemon pepper vinaigrette- Octopus is starting to be pretty ubiquitous, but this is a simple, well-executed preparation, with citrus and some kick from the peppers.
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Branzino with Sicilian green olives and giant caper berries- I realize I have gushed over every dish, but I think that it must be that the flavors used (lots of citrus) really appeal to me. This is my favorite way to have Branzino, with some salt from the olives and giant capers, allowing the fish to shine. Clean, bright, and a proper portion, especially for the price.
Clearly, I love the food at Spigolo, and think it should definitely be on everyone’s radar. Come early, stay late, eat often, and tell your friends, Spigolo is bringing some funk to uptown, even if they consider it downtown…
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