I never had much interest in Nicoise salads until I discovered the truest way that they are served: with fancy tuna in olive oil. Far better than its seared Ahi cousin, fancy tuna in olive oil is a true delicacy, fancier and better bred than its bumble bee brother. Even since having a revelation at the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat, (see photo) I have been seeking out places in NYC to both buy and enjoy this fancy tuna. Garden of Eden stocks a number of varieties from Tonnino, the best being the simplest, in olive oil. This is a great addition to any salad or eaten on its own…
An amazing Nicoise-type salad called the Nizzardo, can be found at Brio, with perfect chunks of Sicilian tuna adding texture and heartiness. In sandwich form, the tuna sandwich at Frankies 570 is sheer bliss. Served on just crispy enough focaccia bread, the tuna is treated to a light herbed mayo rubdown on the bread, some onions and capers. It is addicting and unique in a city filled with sandwiches. And for heartier fare, La Promenade de Anglais serves a trofie with heirloom tomatoes, capers, olives, lemon and ventresca tuna that adds a saltiness to this Putanesca-type sauce.
I realize this tuna might not be for everyone, but the dishes above should be tried before you write it off…
