Buttons Undone
- scene: Cozy and airy at the same time, with dark wood floors, light walls, bright art and large scale flowers
- sip: Speciality cocktails are offered, and they are more than happy to let you try any wine by the glass before you commit
- savor: Bacon and cheddar biscuits; Pulled Pork sandwich
- sit: With anyone really, but it needs to be people that are open to waiting for a table; good for co-workers, a date (if the date is a foodie), or even parents for an early bite
- spend: $$
- address: 42 East 20th, between Broadway and Park Avenue South
- phone number: 212-477-0777
- website: www.gramercytavern.com
I was once told in a food writing class that there is nothing more boring than someone going to a good restaurant and saying it is good. Duh. However, I was truly moved to write this glowing review of this highly celebrated place by two factors: the truly exceptional service that I encountered, and the Pulled Pork Sandwich. Wow, on both accounts. I had never eaten in the front room at Gram Tav before, and I just want to sing from the rooftops that this place is a no-brainer for an excellent dining experience that will make you happy. Danny Meyer had actually been on my shit list a bit of late (see Maialino, see sucks), but my latest experience has him firmly chugging along on the road towards redemption.
The atmsophere at Gram Tav is one of my favorite, and for some reason the slight farmhouse touches always remeind me of the Fall. We went on a terribly rainy winter night, and were greeted by a large scale yellow flower explosion on the bar, just the thing to perk you up a bit. I can go into all of the options, blah blah blah, but for real, everything you get is going to be amazing. I was being dainty and simply wanted a mixed green salad for an appetizer, which was not on the menu. I thought it would be the natural complement to the bacon and cheddar biscuits I selected for the table. Our server said that they only thing in the salad would be mixed greens in a simple lemon vinaigrette, and let me tell you something: it was delicious. The dressing was the perfect balance of acid and citrus and olive oil, and let me have bites of my friend’s lamb papardelle appetizer without being too full.
Now the main courses is where I really fell in love. This Pulled Pork Sandwich is amazing. I don’t know southern ‘que technique from my p’s and q’s, but the sandwich did everything right. The meat was tender and perfectly flavored, piled high (but not scarily high) on a toasted bun that was strong enough to withstand all of the juicy flavors spilling out of it. It came with coleslaw and picked veggies and hot peppers, which all complement each other perfectly. Friend’s steak came out too well done at first, and this is where the amazing service begins: Not only did they apologize and cook him up a new steak, they brought him over a small dish to eat while he waited for the new steak (I tried to wait with half of my sandwich, but willpower is not my strong suit), and they also refilled our wine glasses, for free. The manager himself came over, and was perfectly attentive and apologetic. Round 2, the steak was done just right for Goldilocks.
Another move at restaurants that I love (Babbo does it) is when they give you a coat check tag for any items that you might have had wrapped up to go (bacon and cheddar biscuits had to be taken home for breakfast). It is so nice to simply collect your food at the coatcheck at the end of the meal, instead of sitting with some bag on your table. Our dessert was delicious, and we left fully satisfied and impressed. I will no longer think that Gram Tav is overrated, and will join the chorus already singing its praises, as boring as it might be.