Buttons Undone
Pants at a Glance
- scene: Grey and white subterranean space
- sip: Anything you want; the sommelier is very helpful and friendly
- savor: stromboli; burrata; spaghetti pomodoro; cavatelli with duck
- sit: with co-workers ; with the parents/in-laws; date night
- spend: $$$
- address: 132 West 27th Street (inside the Melia hotel)
- phone number: 917-409-5171
- website: www.imperorestaurants.com
Scott Conant is back in the New York groove, and I could not be more excited. Impero Caffè serves Italian food that you want to eat all the time- fresh, simple and properly constructed. And of course there is THAT pomodoro…
To be honest, this is not a sexy location, but it is convenient. Descending to the dining room via the rather dramatic staircase reminded me of a scene out of Sex and the City. The space is bright, full of whites and grey. The decor is a little bland, befitting of the rather corporate hotel in which it is located, but we heard that some colorful artwork will be installed shortly. But who really cares what the room looks like when there are strombolis present? Not me…
We had a few service hiccups, but we went so close to the opening that we have no doubt that this will improve. More importantly, everyone worked to remedy any issues in a friendly, competent way.
Daryl and I went to Impero Caffe the same week, a few days apart, and had almost the exact same order. When (not if) I go back, I will not hesitate to replicate that order again, it was that terrific. We started with the buratta which was the right temperature and complemented by a bright salsa verde, fave beans and peas, which cut the richness of the cheese and made the whole dish feel seasonal and vegetal. A friend said as an Italian she can not order Conant’s now famous Spaghetti Pomodoro because no self-respecting Italian puts butter in pomodoro. Personally, I don’t care if he put babies in that dish, it tastes so good. This dish has endured for a reason, and that is the (seemingly) simple perfection of all of the elements- the freshness of the tomato sauce, the texture of the homemade pasta, and the visual appeal of a large mound of pasta placed in front of you. The duck cavatelli is an earthy delight, again sprinkled with peas and the most tender pieces of duck imaginable. Finished that one as well…
Impero Caffè is a no brainer for a meal that will subtly satisfy; the most impressive part of the experience is that the food is executed so seamlessly that it can almost be taken for granted.
