Some people turn their noses up at chicken, while others simply never eat chicken “out of the house.” I am not one of those people- I love chicken, and order it often, no matter what people may clucking think. Chicken is extremely versatile and has flavorful incarnations in many cuisines; the wedding diet is over so no need to talk about the virtues of a healthy meal of grilled chicken breast and vegetables. We don’t know if it came before the egg, but chicken works for lunch and dinner, and while chicken may be simple, it is easily elevated, and when done right makes for a memorable meal.
I have rounded up some of my favorite chicken dishes from the last few weeks that feature some properly prepared poultry. I will be presenting an updated roast chicken guide soon as well…Get clicking and get clucking…
Schaller’s Stube– Schaller & Weber is a well regarded German-style sausage shop on the Upper East Side that recently opened an adjacent stand offering prepared sausage items to take away or eat in the small are behind the counter. Schaller’s Stube sells everything from straight-forward bratwurst sandwiches to more exotic sausage combinations, including one doused with chili ketchup, yum. While all of the tubed meat dishes are remarkable, the true revelation is Mrs. Schaller’s fried chicken, which is definitely among the best in the city. Crunchy, and salty on the outside, the steam escapes the second you bite in, revealing perfectly moist (sorry) chicken. While I love that this spot is still mostly under the radar, this chicken deserves to be part of the NYC fried chicken conversation.
Zizi Limona – I first fell in love with shwarma in Israel, and I order it every place it is offered. Made on a vertical, rotating spit, shwarma can be a combination of meats, often chicken and lamb. This simple street food is a flavor powerhouse, and I have been to some dodgy joints in pursuit of the perfect bite. The version at Zizi Limona (served either in a wrap or a platter, pictured) has the ideal flavors and texture, and is beautifully served with grilled onions, hummus and tahini, as well as the required pita bread with which to mop it all up. This almost elegant dish is completely crave-worthy, and an approachable introduction to shwarma for the more timid of palette.
The Nomad– Granted, I am not telling you anything new, but the chicken at the Nomad is still as deserving as ever of all of the praise it receives. The unique stuffing between the meat and the skin of foie gras and black truffles is simply intoxicating, a umami bomb that is both earthy and simple and phenomenal. The dark meat in this dish is treated to different preparations all of the time, and every incarnation is something special. This chicken is not a gimmick- it is a true example of how high quality ingredients and perfect preparation and come together to make a whole greater than its parts. Even if the parts are foie gras and truffles…
Gotham Bar and Grill – We grew up on the chicken at Gotham Bar and Grill, as well as the meticulously constructed paper- thin fries. I used to call Alfred Portale’s style “food with alititude” because of his proclivity towards sky high presentation (including a tower of those French fries). The best part of the tower of fries was always the bottom, where the fries soaked up the rich jus from the chicken. The chicken has a crisped skin, juicy meat, and is cooked in a red wine sauce that adds a sublte richness without overpowering the flavor of the chicken. This item is now an off the menu request, which they are happily accommodating again.
Le Charlot/Le Bilboquet– Two words: Cajun chicken. I do not know which UES restaurant first made this dish, or what is particularly Cajun about it, (must be the spices) but this buttery, beautiful dish is chicken crack. This chicken is perfect for lunch or dinner, complemented again by perfecty French perfectly fried fries to soak up the extra sauce; when dining at either restureant, it is not uncommon for the entire table to order the Cajun Chicken. The chicken is rubbed with spices, and the white meat is slicked and covered with a yellowy, sort of light, sort of rich sauce (don’t ask questions) and a small salad cuts the richness ever so slightly. Which means more room for fries…
Fuku– I hate to declare anything as “having a moment,” but given the hype regarding the addition of a fried chicken sandwich to the Shake Shack menu, the opening (and brief closing) of Manhattan’s first Chik Fil A, and David Chang’s Fuku mania, it seems fitting to say that fried chicken sandwiches are having just that. The Fuku Spicy Fried Chicken Sandwich is comforting and complicated at the same time: how can fried chicken, pickles, and bread add up to something so spectacular? Is it the spiciness? Is it the size? Is it the strength yet tenderness of the bread that holds this monster? Is it the accompanying ssam sauce that I want to rub all over my body? Yes, yes, just yes…
Turntable 5060– Korean chicken wings inspire cult-like devotion, and some people will swear their allegiance to a particular place while also admitting that any Korean chicken wing is a good Korean chicken wing. Turntable 5060 nails both kinds of wings- soy garlic and hot & spicy. The wings are crunchy from frying but not overly battered, and the spicy sauce (my preference) is almost addicting. The wings are also a proper size, so that you don’t feel you are working too hard for little reward. Wash these down with a beer tower, and you will have a very complete evening.
