March 22, 2013

The Marrow- A Few Bones to Pick

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99 Bank Street
212-428-6000
themarrownyc.com

Good. But you'll still be able to go dancing after your meal.

The Marrow NYC

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Disclaimer: I have struggled to make this review more entertaining, but I just couldn’t. My dining companion assured me that it is because there is really nothing so outstanding or entertaining about The Marrow, so I am going to go with that, not creative troubles. She also said to mention that our waiter had a “little smooshy face”, so, there’s that. See below for the skin and bones of The Marrow…

Listen everyone- you eat what you want, and let me eat what I want. I slightly judge vegans because I just feel bad for all of the amazing things they are missing, and I think that same foodies might think the same of some of my food choices. I love food and I love different cuisines and preparations, but at the end of the day I just can’t get down with eating a plate of beef tartare or sucking down a whole order of bone marrow. I am happy to try these things if someone else orders them, but they will never be my first choice. Sorry. I just needed to get that out of the way and let it be known that I did not try to signature dish at The Marrow. If that means that I did not have the full experience, so be it, but…I know you are but what am I?
Background, if you need it: The Marrow is the third place from the first Top Chef Winner, Harold Dieterle. It is in the space that formerly housed Paris Commune, a long lost palace of brunch. My friend and I went to the Marrow at 6:15, because that was the only time we could get in and we were dying to try it. The staff was really friendly, even humored my request to switch tables (let’s be clear we had our pick at 6:15) and they were helpful in assiting us with the menu. The space is slightly awkward as it wraps around a corner, and although there are big windows part of it seemed a little dark. This meaty, filling, slightly dark destination was a bit of a weird choice for the first day after “springing ahead”, but I imagine it would be cozy and charming on a cold winter night. The wine list is a mix of German and Italian wines, and I was so happy with my Gruner that I had several glasses of it.
Again, this menu is a little tough, but there are enough choices that everyone should be able to find something they are satisfied with; still, this place is not date endorsed unless you are comfortable with each other. There are some other dishes that I am excited about returning to try (Duck Shnitzel I am talking to you). The specials also sounded interesting- a light fluke crudo, mozzarella for two, and a stick to your ribs short rib dish with a mushroom and red wine sauce that seemed better suited to a nasty day. We got the bacon wrapped dates that were stuffed with blue cheese and served with saba (red wine reduction). These were heavenly and decadent, with the bacon adding some texture and salt with the gooey blue cheese (which I could have used more of) and the saba added some sweetness to compliment the dates and contrast with the other flavors. Not an entirely unique dish, but tasy. We each had two and that was enough, any more would have been too much. I got the pork dish which was wrapped in speck and served with canneloni beans, red peppers, hot peppers and some bacon; the flavor kind of reminded me of my favorite pork chop at Babbo, but I had some issue with the texture of the pork itself. Apparently this cut is from the neck, but I couldn’t get a lot of clean, soft bites for some reason. My friend’s salmon was perfectly cooked and layered with lots of flavors and textures, and no you can not judge anyone for getting fish at this place.
That’s it. We passed on dessert because one of us has a Lanvin dress to fit into shortly and the other one is losing baby-weight, and it also gives us a reason to go a back.

pants at a glance

  • scene: Sort of typical West Village digs that are a little dark
  • sip: German, Italian wines; specialty cocktails
  • savor: Take your shot and try anything
  • sit: With a foodie friend
  • stilettos: If it is a special occasion feel free to break out the 4 inchers; if not, cute flats are fine
  • spend: $$
  • address: 99 Bank Street
  • phone number: 212-428-6000
  • website: themarrownyc.com

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